by J.D. Brown and Margaret Backenheimer
North to Alaska by sea, roundtrip from Seattle, via Juneau, Sitka, and Ketchikan — with whales and glaciers, eagles and totems along the way — what better way to explore America’s true wilderness than in luxury? Holland America’s newly outfitted cruise ship MS Rotterdam makes this weekly foray along the beautiful shores of the last frontier a midsummer’s delight.

The Rotterdam looms large on the water, although it is now but a boat among mega-ships, carrying up to 1,400 passengers and 600 crew at a swift pace with ease. It is massive enough to contain its own casino, a $2 million art collection and a Las Vegas-style theater, but not so vast as to drown its passengers in a labyrinth of endless decks and corridors.

This is the first season in Alaskan waters for the Rotterdam, Holland America’s standard-bearer. Before venturing up the northern shoreline of the 49th state, the Rotterdam underwent exhaustive enhancements in December 2009. What we came to admire about the redesign of this vessel is how it now seamlessly combines the classic elegance of upscale sailing with the latest technological and recreational advances of a sleek deluxe hotel.
Between ports of call we sampled the Culinary Arts Center, where smiling Executive Chef Thomas Schumann and his team offered interactive gourmet cooking lessons in a state-of-the-art demonstration kitchen. We also wedged our way into the Digital Workshop, where instructors can get you up-to-speed with that new camera or put you online with the latest tips on social networking. We even treated ourselves to ocean views and stone massages in the Greenhouse Spa & Salon, and more than once we dipped our toes into The Retreat, a resort-style facility with lounges anchored in shallow outdoor pools.

The accommodations on the Rotterdam are freshly redesigned, too. The upper-deck Deluxe Verandah and Penthouse Verandah Suites include a private lounge with concierge, very much like the executive floor of a 5-star hotel. Our particular cabin, a few decks below, was a Lanai stateroom, Holland America’s latest innovation, in which the deck windows have been refitted with reflective-glass sliding patio doors. The Lanai doors afford wide views of the sea, as well as wonderful opportunities for people-watching. These 39 new staterooms are not only spacious and luxuriously appointed, but equipped with enough storage to unpack fully, something we always seek, but seldom find, on a seven-day cruise.

The Rotterdam’s showcase is its Explorations Café, a sprawling coffeehouse with baristas on hand, an extensive, well-organized library lining the walls, tables for the largest jigsaw puzzles and comfortable sea-view seating for reading and napping. Above all there is an abundance of workstations with the latest PCs for Internet browsing. This is the finest media complex we have seen on a cruise ship — no tiresome waits for a computer or for a latté.

Less to our taste was the Rotterdam’s inviting, but maddeningly slow, buffet line, the Lido. Its cooking stations proved to be understaffed. While the Lido’s offerings were abundant and tasty, we soon gave up on the slow lines and phoned for room service, which was always a prompt delight.

The dining was better in the main La Fontaine Dining Room, but heading our list was the Pinnacle Grill, renowned for its steaks, wine list and table settings. Reservations and a $20 surcharge are required here, but the ambience, service and cuisine are worth the investment.

All in all, our voyage to Alaska on the “new” Rotterdam was extremely well run, and the upgraded facilities, refreshing. The vessel’s state-of-the-art engines were able to turn on a dime when we explored the scenic highlight of this voyage, an unobstructed close-up survey of Alaska’s spectacular Hubbard Glacier, with nary another vessel in sight. Topping it off almost every night with the classic dessert of the north, baked Alaska, we decided there was nowhere else north by northwest we’d rather be.

Score: 4/5